• 24 Mar 2010 /  Poser, art

    This saved from a discussion in the DAZ3D forums:

    Thanks, Nano.

    Using Semidieu’s Advanced Render Setting script, I got the normal render, a depth cue render (alpha), and two alpha mats done in under 3 hours. …

    Aha, I believe you mentioned Semidieu’s script in an earlier thread. Do you recommend getting the whole package or just the alpha’s? (They sell the alpha’s script separately as well and, given the March Madness, my budget is pretty much maxed.)

    If you have the $20, I’d get the Advanced Render Settings, which gets you a whole slew of tools in one go. Tools you will use. Especially if you have Poser 7 Pro.

    Or you can spend $10 and get passes and alphas (you’ll want both) and spend a lot more time fiddling with them. This don’t work *quite* as satisfactorily as the bigger kit, for me.

    The motion blur was done and then composited so that it didn’t rub out the Oni’s details too much.

    Also, I may be a bit thick this morning, but did you do the motion blur in postwork as well or in poser? If it is done in poser and I know it can be done, can somebody explain how? If it was done in postwork, then also, how?
    I feel like such a tube/newbie. (Which in fairness I still am, have only really done this for a year now.)

    Depth cue is from the Render Passes script.

    Motion blur…in Poser, but again, not as easy to control, and things like depth cue and blur slow your render down dramatically if you have your render set for high/final quality. I have Photoshop and have used it for many years, so I’m quite comfortable with doing postwork…your experience my differ.

    How I do motion blur in Photoshop varies. In this case, I recall this was about what I did:

    1. Use alpha mat for the Oni figure to create a selection and copy of him out of the render layer.
    2. Save that as new layer directly above.
    3. Use motion blur filter on that new layer. Hmm, can’t see his face that well now, details too blurred.
    4. With the blur layer still selected, used alpha mat to create a selection and this time feathered the selection some.
    5. Deleted within that selection. Now I can see him better!
    6. May have fiddled with blur layer opacity and blend mode after that.

    Addendum about alphas masks:

    These are black and white images that are put into the Channels palette below the usual R, G, B & composite channels. White is “show” and black is “hide”. The Alpha mask renders that you get out of Poser are about 1 pixel too large (you get ugly edges unless you contract them by 1 pixel), but they are far, far more accurate and time-saving than trying to make a selection yourself.

    You click the selection icon in the Channels palette and the white parts become a selection. The beauty of this lies in the use of grayscale in these channels, and that you can paint or modify them the way you do layers to a large degree, thereby giving you a LOT of control over your selections and masks. Want soft edges? Apply a Gaussian blur. Need something to fade gently? Apply a gradient.

    Thus, the depth cue image is grayscale…and if you go back to the layers palette, make a new layer of your render (saving the old one, just in case) and use the Lens Blur filter, you would identify that depth cue channel as your mask. Now you can adjust how much blur, how much noise and such in realtime. Awesome! It’s like fixing the F-stop on the fly. How good is that? :D That’s why I do that. No need to take forever re-rendering because the depth cue wasn’t what you wanted.

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  • 04 Mar 2010 /  Poser, programming, rants

    Getting sets for Poser is like reading real estate ads: sounds great and the photo looks good, but you need really walk around in them to find out what they’re like. They’re never as good as they sound. Mind you, there’s theoretically nothing wrong with a set made to be used at a distance. However, I like to work into the nooks and crannies of a set. Who the heck spends their time standing out in an empty space surrounded by grand structures? Not me and not my figments, that’s for sure. I also do not do cartoon images. I like my renders realistic.

    And why the heck won’t they tell us when a set is not made for closeups? Are closeups only made for interiors? GRRR.

    With those requirements in mind, I have a huge beef here: a lot of interesting sets available for Poser and Studio (and even Carrara) are actually NOT made to be used up close or even in the mid distance. What makes this the case?

    • low resolution textures for the surface covered: nastily blurry and artifact-y when rendered at medium distance (within about 12 Poser feet)
    • edges that are too sharp and too clean on old or worn buildings
    • textures that are too regular or have moire patterns
    • lack of mesh detail and general boxiness

    These lists will be updated periodically. I’m not finished by a long shot with this!

    The Roll Call of Crummy Sets

    I’m not going to bag on the freebies—you get what you pay for.

    Set Name Creator Marketplace Comments
    Le Village Faveral DAZ3d
    Temple of the Shadows vbarreto Renderosity

     

    Roll Call of Good Sets

    None of them are perfect, but these are pretty darned good.

    Set Name Creator Marketplace Comments
    Jungle Ruins Stonemason DAZ3d
    Urban Sprawl Stonemason DAZ3d
    Urban Sprawl 2 Stonemason DAZ3d Cars not meant for closeups, per the artist.
    Tin Pan Alley Stonemason DAZ3d Corners of some brick buildings
    too sharp.
    Streets of NYC: Townhouse Row Stonemason DAZ3d Don’t get up close to the stairs
    or concrete bannisters, they’re sharp.
    A Quiet Street Stonemason DAZ3d Looking good so far; excellent textures
    Never Was, Never More, Never Clear. The AntFarm DAZ3d My bad, AF’s stuff should not have been on the crummy list. He listened and has been good with making mods.
    Kelly Lodge, Medieval Tavern Faveral DAZ3d These sets are specifically made for close-ups and include many great props, including some of the best Poser food you’ll see.

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